Weekly Photoshoot 2- Hyperfocal Distance

 'Reservoir'

‘Reservoir’

 'Bridges II'

‘Bridges II’

This weeks task was to produce an image that consisted of ‘Hyperfocal’ distance, meaning that the image should be sharp from the foreground to infinity with no depth of field. The subject was landscape, so I went to four different shoot locations to see which would work best. Equipment needed;

  • Camera to take the picture
  • Tripod to fix the image in place and have a steady base
  • Remote cable release to avoid causing any camera shake when pressing the button.
  • Carrier bag with a weight to steady tripod and avoid any movement by weather conditions or accidentally catching it during the shoot
  • Tape Measure to measure the focal point distance
  • Light Meter to help gain the correct exposure

Hyperfocal distance photography requires an aperture of around f/22 to f/36 to ensure that the image is sharp, which in turn will need a slower shutter speed to allow more light into the image. Obtaining the correct focal point is the key to achieving this kind of image. The average distance is around a third into the scene to maintain sharpness throughout.

Hyperfocal Diagram

Hyperfocal Diagram

I used my standard kit lens which is 18mm to 55mm so I could achieve a full frame picture, and to work out my focussing point for my camera I used a hyperfocal chart calculator on Cambridge in Colour (Hyperfocal Calculator),  which for my camera worked out at around 2.6ft to 2.8ft.

My preferred image is the ‘Reservoir’ but unfortunately I had flare on the lens that is visible, using a lens hood or my hand to block some light could have avoided this. The movement of the water in the ‘Bridge’ image was more appealing but preferred the detail and composition in ‘Bridges II’. The ‘Country’ image was the first image that I took and I forgot to use my wireless trigger remote so this is not the most appropriate image for the task due to hand shake but the composition and the shape of the landscape is very effective. I decided not to use my light meter on this occasion as it was difficult to obtain an accurate reading, alternatively I adjusted my shutter speed and stuck to ISO 200.

To conclude, all of these images have areas that I like in them, if I were to do this task again I would look for a location that had all three target points but combined together, and I would add more foreground which was needed for this task.

 

 

 

References: Cambridge in Colour

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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